मसँग काठमाडौंमा ५ रोपनी जग्गा भए…..

सानो सानो टुक्रा गरेर, आनाको करोड करोडमा बेच्दिनथें, खुला मैदान बनाएर घण्टाको ५० र १०० पार्किङ शुल्क लिएर राख्दिनथें, कसैलाई सर्लक्क लिजमा दिएर, दस वर्षको भाडा उठाउँदिनथें । त्यसो भए तपाईंहरूले सोचिरहनु भएको होला, के गर्थे होला भनेर? आफैँ घर बनाएर बस्थे, ठूलो कम्पाउन्डले घेरेर? अहँ, त्यो पनि होइन।

म त ठूलो चौर बनाउँथें – नेपाली दुबोको, त्यसमा साना साना बगैँचा पनि थप्थे, रंगीबिरंगी – आफ्नै शहरको प्रजातिको बोटहरूका। अनि उफ्रने, खेल्ने, शान्तमा चराहरूको आवाज सुन्ने, भारी बिसाउने, एक छिन सुस्ताउने र प्रकृति र समाजसँग अझ नजिक भई नियाल्ने वातावरण बनाउँथें। म, एउटा आर्किटेक्ट, त्यसमा मेरो मास्टर्सको पढाइ चाहिँ ल्यान्डस्केप आर्किटेक्चर। त्यसमा पनि मेरो फोकस भन्नुपर्दा काठमाडौं र काठमाडौंजस्तै अरू शहरका लागि खुला ठाउँ व्यवस्थापनको लागि फ्रेमवर्क बनाउने। पढाइ नै त्यसै सम्बन्धी गर्न मन लाग्यो, दिनदिनै आफ्नो शहरको रूप कुरूप भैरहेको देख्दा। सानो छँदा खेलेका, दौडेका, कति धेरै सम्झनाहरू बनाएका ठाउँहरूमा आजभोलि बच्चाहरू खेल्दैनन्। त्यहाँ त केवल जग्गा सम्याउनका लागि डोजर चल्छन्, ढलान गर्नका लागि क्रसरहरू चल्छन्, एक इन्च जग्गा एता उता होला भनेर दाजुभाइहरूका तिखा तिखा शब्दहरू चल्छन्।

यस्तो पौउको भौउमा बिक्ने जग्गामा कसले खुला ठाउँ राख्ला र! अनि मैले यस्तै कुरा गर्दा सबै जनाले मलाई पागल भन्छन्। र मैले म भएको भए त यस्तै गर्थें भने भने, “तेरो छैन र त भन्छस् नि” भन्छन्। अचम्मको कुरा त के छ भने, यो तितो हुँदै गैरहेको समाज, यो एक अर्काप्रति नकारात्मक सोच, सधैं हुने इरिटेसन, यो सबै नै हामी कहाँ शहरी हरियाली नहुनु र दिनदिनै बढ्दो प्रदूषणको नतिजा हुन सक्छ। यही ठाउँमा त अनुसन्धान गरिएको छैन, तर विश्वका शहरहरूमा भएको अनुसन्धानमा यस्तो कुरा प्रमाणित भैसकेको छ।

बच्चाहरू स्वतन्त्रसँग आफ्नो घर वरिपरि आफ्नो उमेरको हिसाबले कति परसम्म जाने, यस्ता कुराहरू पनि विश्वमा अनुसन्धान भैसकेका छन्। आजकल त पन्ध्र मिनेटको शहर भनेर निकै चर्चामा पनि आएको छ। यो भनेको चाहिँ सबै दिनदिनैलाई चाहिने आवश्यक कामकाजका ठाउँहरू मात्र १५ मिनेटको दुरीमा। विश्वका शहरहरू निकै ठूला छन्, त्यहाँ हिँडेर अथवा साइकलमा धेरै टाढासम्म पुग्न सकिन्न। पहिला शहरको योजना बनाउँदा, धेरै नै ठूला सडक, गाडीमा मात्र ध्यान दिएको पाइन्छ। यस्ता ठाउँहरूमा आजकल यस्तो पन्ध्र मिनेटका शहर र बस्तीका कल्पना गर्न थालिएका छन्। तर हाम्रो काठमाडौं शहर, जुन पहिले पैदलमैत्री थियो, अहिले बाटोमा हिँड्नै नसकिने भएको छ। यति सानो, चिटिक्क परेर मिलेको शहर, मानिस र साना साना बच्चाहरूलाई मनपर्ने खालका बाटाघाटा, सानो सानो चोक र गल्लीहरू, जहाँ मानिसका भावनाहरू साटिन्छन्, कल्पनाहरू फुर्छन् र जहाँ साना साना नानीबाबु खेल्दै, लड्दै, पढ्दै रमाउँदै र धेरै कुरा सिक्दै डुल्न सक्छन्, यस्तो शहरलाई मासेर कहिले सम्म हामी पश्चिममा फेल भैसकेको अवधारणामा हाम्रो शहरी योजना बनाउने? अब पनि नसिक्ने?

ठूला ठूला अनुसन्धान संस्थाहरूले करोडौं खर्च गरेर अध्ययन गरिरहेका शहरका अवधारणा त हामीकहाँ अहिले यसै छ। त्यसलाई मासेर हामीचाहिँ उनीहरूले फालिसकेको मुकुन्डो लगाएर बस्ने? हाम्रो शहर विकासका योजना बनाउने, मन्त्रालय, स्थानीय निकाय र सबैभन्दा धेरै प्रभाव पार्न सक्ने हाम्रो शहरका प्रतिनिधि मेयरहरूलाई मेरो प्रश्न र सुझाव पनि – अन्तर्राष्ट्रिय स्तरको अनुसन्धान र अध्ययन गरौं, समाधान र विकल्पचाहिँ हाम्रो स्थानीय सन्दर्भसँग मिल्ने बनाऔं। मात्र यत्ति गरिदिए पुग्छ।

नीति ढाँचाहरू त बन्दै गर्छन्, र त्यसलाई अपनाउँदै जाने हो। तर सर्वप्रथम के गरेर शहर राम्रो बनाउने भन्दा पनि के चाहिँ गर्दै नगर्नेमा हामी ध्यान दिऔं। यसमा तपाईंहरूलाई थुप्रै किसिमका विज्ञहरूको आवश्यकता पर्छ। एक्टिभिजमले हामीलाई चेतना त दिन्छ, तर दिगो विकासका लागि विज्ञहरूको सल्लाहबाट आफ्नो कार्यहरूलाई सकारात्मक र सफल बनाउनुहोस्। सही विज्ञहरूको पहिचान गर्नुहोस्। र स्थानीय बासिन्दाहरूको कुरा सुन्न र समावेश गर्न नछुटाउनुहोस्। र सबैभन्दा महत्त्वपूर्ण, सबैभन्दा कमजोर र सीमांतकृत जनसंख्याका लागि योजना बनाउनुहोस्। बलियाबाङ्गाले त आफ्नो जोहो गरिहाल्छन्, ती निर्बलका लागि शहर बनाउनुहोस्, समावेशी हुनुहोस्। वास्तवमा उनीहरु कमजोर होइनन्, हाम्रो शहर उनीहरुको लागि असक्षम हो – सफल शहरमा सबैले आफ्नो स्थान पाउनुपर्छ।

शहरमा खुला ठाउँ र हरियालीलाई प्राथमिकता दिनुहोस्। यस्ता हरियालीका ठाउँहरूमा हाम्रा नेपाली बोटबिरुवालाई प्राथमिकता दिनुहोस्। र यस्ता ठाउँहरू बालमैत्री, बच्चाहरूसँगै मिलेर योजना बनाउनुहोस्। यस्ता खुला ठाउँहरू राम्रोसँग योजना गरेर बनाउन सकियो भने यसले हाम्रो शहरको सामाजिक र सांस्कृतिक लाभ, यहाँ बस्नेहरूको शारीरिक र मानसिक स्वास्थ्य लाभ, यहाँको वातावरणमा सुधार हुने प्रभाव साथै यहाँको आर्थिक लाभमा समेत टेवा पुर्‍याउँछ। सुनेको छु, हाम्रो शहरमा थुप्रै सार्वजनिक खुला ठाउँहरू मासिएका, मिचिएका छन्। कति रोपनी जग्गा त पत्ता पनि लागिसक्यो रे। यस्ता जग्गाहरूलाई फेरि पहिचान गरी यस्ता ठाउँहरूमा हरियाली प्रवर्द्धनका कामहरू गरौं। फेरि हाम्रा बालबालिका उफ्रिने, दौडिने, लड्ने र लडेर फेरि उठ्ने ठाउँहरू बनाऔं। यी साँचै नै आधारभूत आवश्यकताहरू हुन्। र यो गर्नुका फाइदा पनि छन् शहरी विकासका लागि। यसरी हुर्केका बालबालिकामा आफ्नो ठाउँसँगको आत्मीयताको विकास हुनेछ र आफ्नो ठाउँको हेरचाह गर्ने जिम्मेवारीको चेतना पनि। उनीहरू सधैं शहरका सबैका लागि वातावरण राम्रो बनाउन काम गर्नेछन्।

Tundikhel: Because it is not just an Open Space! – It is a legacy well earned.

Tundikhel: Because it is not just an Open Space! – It is a legacy well earned.

City Open Spaces speak history and identity of the city. They make our cities liveable, safe and welcoming for everyone. How we plan and use it matters! Maybe not for the elites and dominant groups, but it matters for the most vulnerable ones, for the marginalised population. Are we inviting them to explore these spaces or taking one more chance away from them from experiencing their city, taking one more basic right away from them? In different centuries the use and understanding of public space has changed due to the influence of cultural exchange, politics, economy and technology. And in the 21st century is this how we envision our public space? By turning it into a mere football ground? A dynamic young leader like Mr. Shah could manifest much more.

Open Spaces

A city is a dynamic fabric. Its dynamism depends on how well-planned its Open Spaces are. Strategic planning of these spaces offers numerous benefits, promoting sustainable development through cultural preservation, social inclusion, environmental, health as well as economic benefits and overall, a beautiful city.

Just adding the right type of greenery to urban open spaces significantly reduces temperature and improves air quality. The air quality index of Kathmandu looks scary. It seems there is no discrimination here, as we all breathe in the same air. Perhaps some have air purifiers at home. But then it means they cannot go outdoors in their own city, now see who is discriminated here.

Public Open Spaces work best when they establish a direct relationship between the space and the people who live and work around it. It starts with independent mobility and freedom of exploration to how you slowly develop ‘place attachment’ and feel the urge to protect it and take care of it – a mutual connection developed through a long span of time, childhood on.

To achieve urban integration means thinking of urban open spaces not as an isolated unit – but as a vital part of the urban landscape with each category having its own specific set of functions. River corridors and regional parks provide biodiversity and ecological values along with an opportunity for recreation and religious activities; a small parcel of land on a neighbourhood scale can be a playground or a place to relax; historical courtyards, streets and squares can still provide traditional functions. Open Spaces should also cater for sports facilities which could be on the outskirts with large unused lands. Likewise, City Open Spaces like Tundikhel play the role of preserving the identity of the city and providing a sense of belonging to everyone. A ‘network of open spaces’ with linkages, access and continuation is needed to strengthen them.

City Open Space – everybody’s equal access and say

As a City Open Space, people should be able to enjoy the urban experience as a venue for a range of different activities, from outdoor eating to street entertainment; from play areas to a venue for civic or political functions; and most important of all an inclusive and inviting place for walking or sitting-out. We actually have to create a ‘canvas’ where the public can do their art with their movement, we create a theatre where the public will perform their acts, we create a universe where public create their own ecosystem along with other species. As beautifully written in the book ‘Public Space’ by Carr Steven “Public Space is the stage upon which the drama of communal life unfolds.” This unfolding creates numerous images of the city as perceived by the individuals, which helps them bond to their city with its identity, as Kevin Lynch explains in his book ‘Image of the City’.

Khula Manch (Tundikhel) is this stage for us, we need it to be the salad bowl where the mixture of different cultures can find their individual expression instead of being a melting pot. The very concept of a democratic society till the twentieth century as a melting pot which mixes all the cultures together and homogenises into the one expression of national culture does not fit in today’s world. It has been mostly replaced by the pluralist approach which embraces diversity in needs, attitudes and expression rather than expecting conformity.

Another example is the Newroad. It is an open space which comes in the category of ‘Streets and squares’, which thus should be planned and managed likewise. Though I completely support that the city cores should be pedestrianised or atleast should be made pedestrian-friendly, but doing any intervention without a democratic process will pay back harshly. Streets in the city core are much more than just open spaces with functional linkage. They speak history, they have witnessed different eras and transitions, started a completely new revolution, or continued a legacy for generations. These infinite layers of social, cultural and political events have been well encrypted in Newroad too. Studying in detail, unfolding each layer delicately, identifying the sensitive aspects, healing the bruises and carrying forward the regenerational elements is just taking one right step towards its revitalisation. And this cannot be done without proper process and methods, a team of well-versed experts who value the local knowledge should start the process using innovative methodologies and in collaboration with the local people and stakeholders. The team should not go with a solution but start working together with the local community to find the issues in the first place and then work together to find solutions. In case of Newroad, there should have been a research and study team just to understand the core of new road and develop a framework for its redevelopment, then an open design competition following these guidelines should have been made, several rounds of presentation of the design to the local people and wider public, feedbacks must have been taken, a team to evaluate all these must have been formed, I can go on, I hope the gist is understood here.

Open spaces are where democracy is worked out literally on the ground. Many voices have been raised, many rulers have been challenged and revolution has taken its toll. It’s only a matter of time before the voices get louder, sooner or later, everybody wants to live in a society where they feel their voices matter. If a city fails to cater for this, they show their rebellion either by leaving the system (youth go abroad), expressing negative gestures (teenagers leave graffiti on the walls) or sometimes simply by littering. This liberation is rooted deep down in humanity, oppressors lose their glory in a blink of an eye. True leaders must be able to serve. As long as collaboration exists, we can envision a just society where our open spaces are ours one more time because we thrive together – a genuine participatory approach must be considered.

Creating the Canvas

If we want our city to thrive, we must study it, make plans for it and then act upon it – not once but in a continuous cycle. While studying let’s be open, let’s be systematic, let’s be inclusive, let’s find categories, let’s identify core strengths and problems, let’s do critical reflection and find methods to find solutions, let’s collaborate and then work together for solutions. And let’s apply these solutions taking all measurable and immeasurable impacts. And after taking these actions, let’s reflect upon our processes and adapt and improvise, be flexible and democratic, let’s transform and educate ourselves to comprehend the next phase of studying, planning and then taking action. We must keep on working, but in each new action we are a little more aware, a little more equipped and a lot merrier. This is how a city works, amongst the chaos, amongst the unanswered – question everyone and hear their answers.

And when it comes to planning city open spaces, a thorough understanding of the community’s needs, preservation considerations, and a commitment to sustainable and inclusive intervention is a must. Engaging with the community and relevant experts will be key to making an informed decision that respects both the historical context and the contemporary needs of the area. This would help the city move towards the right direction, not reach the destination as off, but just start on the right path.

What’s going wrONg

I do believe instead of trying to prove that one can make a difference or can bring about the (visible) change, a leader should focus on forming a system, and institutionalising correct order. “If you are not here to prove anything to anyone but to really make Kathmandu sustainable and developed, believe me, you would take this approach.”

As the mayor himself says reconstruction of Dharahara is a ‘white tower’. So how are we reconstructing the image of our intangible heritage is the question we need to raise together! “An open space where you could play football too” or “a football ground where you could do other things too”. The image of an open space is not merely physical but shaped by diverse activities occurring at various times. It is more than a piece of land; it embodies the heritage of activities from the past to contemporary society. As old residents lose their identity and new ones struggle to find one, we must contemplate if this is the path to societal development.

People who play football will find a way to play football anywhere. But people who are reluctant to explore these open spaces will be even more constrained. We must design and manage cities for this population. Then we can talk about inclusion, equal rights and opportunities. People from every field and every walk of life must understand this. If we design cities for cars we will get cars, if we design cities for people, we will get people. But if we design and make them accessible only for certain groups of people, we can bid goodbye to the philosophy of our federal democratic republic nation.

What should be done

So how do we design and plan our spaces so that it works for all? Where children can run around free and wild, elderlies find their chitchat spot not so far away from the children’s laughter, a young girl finds solace under a tree or a visually impaired boy smells and feels a fresh breeze of air? We do not tap into our expertise, we do not tap into our authority, but as Amanda Burden has said, we tap into HUMANITY!  She was appointed by the city commission to improve the quality of life of the people in New York City. With her humble approach she was not making plans for the big apple sitting at her desk, she went out walked every street and corner, identified the needs of the city and its people, and then was able to create landscapes that literally worked for all, supporting diversity and biodiversity. One such example is the ‘Highline’ which was an abandoned railroad. Rather than demolishing it rehabilitating was a great approach.

How can the process start

Kathmandu Metropolitan City (KMC) should start by identifying the different types of open spaces and then develop a framework, assigning different functions and features to each category. These should be provided to the communities who can then use them to develop their open spaces using these guidelines, along with monitoring and maintenance. But again, when it comes to open spaces like Tundikhel and Newroad, KMC has to take an innovative, sensitive and contemporary approach, to plan and manage it, taking diverse perspectives, approaches and expertise, and not forgetting communities are the most important experts. So, to create a sustainable, inclusive, equitable city, we must work in that direction, as is mentioned in my favourite quote from a very famous urbanist/author/activist.

‘Cities have the capability of providing something for everybody, only because, and only when, they are created by everybody.’ – Jane Jacobs.

Are we ready as experts, as authorities, as people in the position to play our roles to provide the citizens, especially children, their rights to live in a healthy and thriving city and, in the process also make them responsible? Or do we want to create more constraints and thus make our society ever more ill and disintegrated? Our open spaces have been resilient throughout centuries but they are struggling to survive, it’s time to make them lively again so that our lives are also enriched. Do we want to create a win-win in this scenario or do we want to lose as a society?

To thrive, Kathmandu Metropolitan City must embrace collaboration and actively listen to the diverse voices within its community. Let’s start a green revolution, an Open Space movement!

We need to rethink our notion of ‘Who plans and shapes our cities?’

One can simply say ‘planners, designers, architects are responsible to make a city liveable’, but there is an overarching theory to it, – ‘who has the finances, who sponsors the projects, who have vested interest and power’ are the ones who build the cities. Most of the projects being funded by the government take a big political influence.

Being an architect myself and with expertise in open space planning, I have bagged many projects through multiple links and experiences as an architect. But when it comes to landscape planning and public space designs, my expertise is not valued as much as the local representative’s interests. The private projects related to construction are more resource-dominated. An architect’s knowledge is dominated hugely by vested interests, majorly political, financial as well as lack of respect for the profession, the cities are massively impacted. Especially when it comes to open space planning, we have to take a different approach altogether. There is no perfect design but we should let the space develop as the people start using it, we allow freedom and expression. We should not tap into our expertise but we should tap into humanity as Amanda Burden, an American urban planner said. This does not mean we do not do anything, we actually have to create the canvas where the public can do their art with their movement, we create a theatre where the public will perform their acts, we create a universe where public create their own ecosystem along with other species. There is no institution here in Nepal, which prepares such experts and the ones who have studied abroad and come back to give their knowledge and learning to their community are not welcomed. This makes experts like us sad and frustrated because we can see that what is happening in the city is not right and it will have a long-term impact to all of us but we are not in the position to change it and nobody is ready to listen.

The discussion put forth is in itself controversial because in Asian cities, particularly in Kathmandu, I have seen the professionals who are supposed to shape and plan the cities – planners, architects, construction managers and conservationists not being able to use their expertise but more playing the roles of activists when the authorities are not able to make good plans and proper management policies for the city. These government authorities do not consult and hire the experts but they rely on their resources who come to work in government jobs through a common IQ-based entry examination. The module of exams is outdated and those who pass these examinations come through tough competition of not argumentation and creativity but more of the banking system of education. I believe these government officers should play the role of managers and let external experts do the technical jobs. But as soon as they are in a position to make decisions, they want to implement their own ideas without much research and planning. Even when they hire experts, they try to impose their own understanding and solutions. Most of the time, its not even a lack of expertise, it’s the lack of a good mindset. This lag in the system is making the city pay a huge price when it comes to sustainable development and regenerative green spaces. I have worked both as an architect as well as a community planner. I have experienced there is no democratic decision-making and planning approach when it comes to planning open spaces. People, especially children lose connection to their environment, both natural and social, and are deprived of their basic needs. We need to expose them to their environment so that they explore and reach their potential with social, physical, and psychological development and later become responsible citizens. When this happens they understand the need of the city and use their skills and knowledge to make it better, that too, with collaborative approach.

So how do we pierce through the bureaucrats as well as elected members in the local community? After I completed my master’s I came back to Nepal to share my knowledge and implement it through various agencies. Initially, I tried to go to the local areas with solutions and it did not work. As an expert, I could not convince them with my strategies. Then I worked out a way to work together with them but the adults who are in the position to implement the plans were not ready to accept my ideas, they were not even ready to work together. Then I took the approach of working with children. This approach has been widely used in many cities of the world now. The contemporary urban planners and researchers in children spaces and development both believe that children can act as catalyst for urban innovation. Their views are more diverse and they can bring solutions to their communities if they can have meaningful participation. Hence, I also used it contextually in different neighbourhoods of Kathmandu, successfully.

Though this has been realised in urban planning community globally, how to do this was not the issue raised by many contemporary researchers. I, therefore, moved towards the solutions, not by proposing the solution but by taking the actual steps which could lead to the solutions involving the main stakeholders.

As a researcher hence I tried to find a balance between research and action. I went into the community, especially to the vulnerable groups, in this context the urban middle-class children and worked with them, co-researched with them to find out the actual situation of community spaces and how they are shaped and how the issues can be solved. I conducted participatory action research with the children in different communities in Kathmandu to find out the situation of their environment through their lenses and also to propose a solution for the same. Participatory action research is an approach which believes in critical pedagogy which means giving voice to the ones who are oppressed, which is in line with the concept of Paulo Freire who believed that education must aid in developing critical consciousness and the learners or the participants must act to liberate themselves and the society also from the injustice, their engagement is crucial for this.

I believe that this type of grassroots intervention can actually bring forth solutions to the existing problems, as people who are actually living in such situations will be able to identify the genuine problem and in turn, propose solutions for the same, and in the process, empower themselves. If we continue such efforts, we can really bring about a change in the community, then in the city and in the country as a whole. But the process should be continuous as well as there should be a genuine concern for the well-being of the community through planned neighbourhoods and action-oriented interventions. I say this always and each time, that the people are not supposed to be fed, they are to be taught to grow and prepare their own meals.

As the city is a dynamic built, anyone who wants a city to thrive, must study it, make plans for it and then act upon it – not once but in a continuous cycle. There must be support from the government and local bodies for these types of interventions and research.

Coming back to the topic of this article ‘who plans and shapes the cities?’

I would like to add my favourite quote from a very famous urbanist/author/activist whose theories and observations are the holy book for architects and urban planners –

‘Cities have the capability of providing something for everybody, only because, and only when, they are created by everybody.’ – Jane Jacobs

Are we ready as experts, as authorities, as people in the position to play our roles to give the citizens especially children, their rights to a healthy and thriving city, in the process also make them responsible? or do we want to create more constraints and thus make our society ever more ill? Do we want to make a win-win in the battle or do we want to lose our society?

आज एउटा कथा सुनाउछु

धेरै पढेर बिग्रिएको म

स्वतन्त्र भएर मात्तिएको म

सोमत मान सम्मन बिर्सिएर

लाज सरम पचाएको म

संस्कार पाएकै हो मैले त राम्रो

दुख नदिनु अरुलाई

अरु माथिको अन्याय पनि हेरेर नबस्नु

तर मैले देखेको अन्याय किन देख्दैनन अरुले

आँखा अलि कम्जोर कि मन नै कठोर यिनिहरुको

नैतिक दृष्टान्त त मेरो फेवरेट कविता

जिन्दगी को जुन सुकै परिस्थितिमा  पनि

दुई लाइन त्यो कविता पढे

जस्टिफाइ हुन्छ सबै कुरा

तेही पढेर झुक्न कोशिश गरे

टाउको मेरो सारै थाडो

बाझ्दै हिँड्छु म एक्लै

अन्याय सहन निक्कै गाह्रो

धेरै बुझेर नकचराएको म

धेरै नै सोचेर भाँडिएको म

धेरै सम्झेर आत्तिएको म

साचै नै हो त

धेरै पढेर बिग्रिएको म ?

रेमिटेन्सको तितो सत्य

पुरा हुन नसकेका तिम्रा ती अधुरा सपनाहरु

वेदनामा डुबेका तिम्रा ती रित्ता आकांक्षाहरु

पिडामा छट्‌पट्‌याएका ती तिम्रा मनोभावहरु

ऐया आथा कति गर्यौ होला ती खोक्रा बिश्वास मेटिदा खेरि

मर्न त मानिस एक दिन मर्छ

हरेक दिन एउटा नेपाली भित्र भित्रै मर्छ

यी तस्विर हरु हेर्दा कसको मुटु नकाप्ला र

अहो लाचार ती हाम्रा पाखुराहरु

श्रम गरूम भन्दा खेत बेच भन्छन्

दुख आफ्नो देश मै गरु भन्दा कमिसन ले भन्छन्

ल त पैसा नै बोल्छ यो संसार मा भनी बिदेशिदा

बोल्न सधै को लागि नसक्ने गरी फिर्ता हुन्छन्

बोल्न सधै नै नसक्ने गरी फिर्ता हुन्छन्

Heart that always loved – Maami

I will not stop dreaming, I promise to your sparkling eyes.
I will not be afraid to try, I promise to your witty smile.
I will fight and fight, I promise to you and your life.
I will always smile and let it go, I promise to your last good bye.

Words are not enough.
Moments were never enough.
Wanted to stay with you a little longer.
Wanted to hear your voice a bit more.

You were that grandmother I could get upset with.
You were that grandmother who could bring my smile back.
You truly were my mother’s mother.
With the same hearts beating together.

‘Maami, I love you’, I used to say.
You said ‘it was for lovers’ and you were shy.
Then you would repeat ‘I love you too’.
After I explained we are lovers too and why.

Relationships are not always smiles.
But togetherness is what remains.
Your tales are never ending.
Your heart a pure gold.

As you truly rest in peace.
I promise to keep you alive.
In my memories.
And my endless tales.

Acid on her face

Mehendi on her hand
Acid on her face
Her destiny will not change
It’s a cry of faith

Faith she had in her strength
That struggles to find existence
Giving up she never learnt
The cruelty will soon behead

Laughters and therapies
Intense care and support
She will rise up again
With the strength to defeat the demon

The demon, it lies in you
It lies in me
We will defeat it together
The battle is against us

She is not a girl
But truth of a disgusting society
Shameless and strengthless as we are
The traitor finds its way

The colours of her mehendi will go away
But the scars will remain
The coward devil doesn’t know
Her inner strength has deepen even more

अरुलाई दु:ख त दिएका हैनौ होला तिमीले पनि जानी जानी

न्याय को होइन

अन्याय कै जीत भईरहेछ

जति म हांस्न खोज्छु भीडमा

त्यती नै एकान्तमा मन रोइरहेछ

दिनहु मान्छे मरेका छन

बिचलित भएका छन् झन्

न्याय माग्दा  माग्दै तिन्का पुस्ता  समेत्

अन्धकारमा धकेलिएका छन्

खोई कहाँ आयो गणतन्त्र

कहाँ गयो त्यो समान अधिकारका कुरा

राजालाई त हटाइयो

राजतन्त्र कहिले सम्म

न्याय माग्दै हिंडेका ति बलात्क्रित नारी

आफ्नै घरबाट टाढिएका ती अदिबाशी

कस्का लागि गरेको थियो त्यो संघर्श

कस्ले दियो एती ठुलो अधिकार खेल्न अरुको आत्मा सित

छाती तानी तानी अझै नि छ घमन्ड को ताती

तारा बाजी लै लै गर्न नजान्ने पुगेका छन् माथि माथि

के आश राख्नु र यि अमरयाधित पाखण्डीहरुसँग

जति नै गाह्रो भए पनि गरिरहने हो आफ्नै संघर्श

राजनीति मन पर्दैन भन्थे

शब्द नै छ त्यस्तो

निति बनाउने नै हो राज गर्न अरुको माथि

छी छी घ्रिडा गरु म कति

अति भो अब त अति

नगर न हे अझै पनि खति

हृदय त छ होला नि धड्किने तिमी भित्र पनि

आँखा चिम्लेर मनन् गर केहि समयको लागि

ताली पिटी हास्ने छौ तिमी

छिन् छिन्  मा रूने पनि

मान्छे नै त हौ आखिर तिमी नि

भावना को खानी

अरुलाई दु:ख त दिएका हैनौ होला तिमीले पनि जानी जानी

अरुलाई दु:ख त दिएका हैनौ होला तिमीले पनि जानी जानी

Phuket – way to the old town and around – a different perspective!

When I think about it now, maybe I might have escaped this trip if I had gone to Phuket for just few days to explore some beaches and the night life there. Luckily, I was there for a month, of course, I had some extra days to mingle around. I somehow, from the beginning was interested in this old town because for me, architecture speaks out loud with these beautiful old settlements more than any fascinating buildings around the world.

Phuket first sunset – Patong beach

The ride from Patong beach to the old Phuket town was already promising. Furthermore, sightseeing in different locations of Phuket, the Wat Chalong temple, Big Buddha, Promthep Cape are sights worth mentioning.

Let me share with you a short story before that. It is very easy to travel around in Phuket by scooter (motorbike). If you are staying there for a week or more, it is actually a very convenient and cheapest way to get around. That’s what we thought when we planned our trip to Thailand from Germany. In Bangkok, it was easier to reach most of the places without getting stuck in traffic with the metro line. It was very convenient, and the AC worked well. But, in Phuket as we were thinking of staying there for a month, we thought we will rent a bike. As we are used to going around in Kathmandu in our motorbikes we found that a very good option. Having said that, after a few days in Phuket and few consultations at the bike rentals as well as with the owner of the resort we were staying in, we finally decided to rent a bike for the remaining days. This would mean that we could go around anytime anywhere. We talked to the bike rentals which had the best option, we wanted a lighter bike so that I could ride it as my partner’s license was expired and we could only renew it when we were in Nepal. We came back to our resort, I suddenly instinctively decided to check my wallet and there you go, my license was not there. I brought a travel friendly wallet with me for this trip and I realised that I had left my license in the old wallet back in my apartment in Germany. Welcome to the world of surprises!! It was so annoying that we had to change our plan again to adjust to the ‘no license mode’.

This is how we ended up going to the old town in a bus. But I won’t say I regretted it. The bus was with open windows so we could get some natural wind flowing in from between us. The ride was fun with around 15 more people, mostly tourists, eager to visit the old town as well. Few of them took off in several other places like the way to go to Kalim beach, some shopping malls in between and so on. There were few school children also in the bus, probably returning home after school. There was an old lady, very old, she could not even stand straight but she was travelling alone and there were few other locals who were chatting with her and helping here. It was a quite an interesting ride. When we reached the last stop, the old town, there were still two more people in the bus. We asked them if this was the last stop, they did not know, and they did not know English as well. They looked a bit lost themselves and it was hard to communicate with them. Then we asked the driver if this is our stop, he said yes and he also told us what time is the last bus to return and where it comes. And we were very thankful to him.

Phuket being a bit hilly with its landscape, the roads had a lot of twists and turns. The roads were narrow and sometimes, the bus had to wait a long time in the traffic to get through. At that time, there were many bikes passing by us and then again we thought, oh no! why did I forget my license. But when we were returning back, we saw an accident and many bikes lined up on the road and the police were checking their licenses. Apparently, there was a collision between a bike and a bus. When we talked to the passenger next to us, he told us that there are many such accidents happening on this way as the bike riders are speeding in the curvature makes it difficult for them to control once the centrifugal force starts acting upon them. Alas, we were thankful that we did not rent a bike. I am not a kind of person who is so scared and afraid of taking risks, but this was a different scenario altogether. We did not know the road, we did not know the riders there, we did not know the traffic. I mean even if we drove safely, we cannot guarantee that there won’t be an idiot in too much rush and too much in need to show off overtaking us in a turning where it is impossible to control the force radiating from the centre.  We would have definitely rented a bike if we had license and drove safely but not being able to do so also left us with no regrets.

Bus ride and the the curved road

Wow the old town! What could I say about it! A perfect blend of art and architecture. A mixture of Portuguese building form and Chinese art that decorated the beautiful proportion of two storey and one storey buildings. They call it Sino-Portuguese architecture. Portugal had invaded many countries in the past, mostly South America, India and Africa. But in this place, it was not invasion, it was pure trade. They came to Phuket old town for business.  I will write more about the history, architecture style and mixture of how it all happened together and created a magical town, for now I would like to add some more regarding the travel options and experience.

Phuket old town!

There is also Tuktuk, which you must try once when you are in Phuket. Tuktuk is better when you are in a group of 5 or 6 people. There was also a van where you could reserve a seat. This was mostly helpful for going to the airport and if you are alone or a couple. Instead of taking taxi, you could book a seat there, and they come to the place where you live to pick you up. There are many people going around in Phuket in bikes, tourist and locals equally. It is always the cheaper and efficient option. Even if you are staying in one locality you can easily go to others as the town is very small and compact. Taxis are a bit expensive for a single journey. But if you decide to rely on taxi, you should take it as we did. You should hire it for a whole day. One day we went for sightseeing to other places around Phuket. Like I mentioned before, you should not miss this as well, some of the temples there, for example, Wat Chalong was very intriguing. You could also go to the Big Buddha. Though statue itself is not so impressive, the view from there overlooking the Phuket town is beautiful. The huge statue built legally in national conserved forest in somewhat a very new addition to the town. You could check out this website for details.

Also, worth mentioning was the Promthep Cape which I would suggest you go in the evening to see the beautiful sunset that everyone claims mesmerises your senses. Though we reached there during the day and we had to leave before the sunset, still this place with the captivating views and connectedness with the ocean made each breath as magical as the blue water indulging its pretty land. Fun part was there was a couple having their lovely wedding photoshoot.

Promthep Cape – tranquil to the ocean and sunset view.
Sunset view from my lens.

Ps. this trip was made in the starting of 2018. I wish I could go there again and get lost in the ocean and views.

But, you never taught me to…

-Ps. Mom = mommy & baba

Mom, you taught me to laugh;
But you never taught me to fake smiles;
Mom, you taught me to love unconditionally;
But you never taught me to show fake respect.

Mom, you taught me to share;
But you never taught me to serve;
Mom, you taught me to survive;
But, you never taught me to cook.

Mom, you taught me to respect all;
But you never taught me to bow regardlessly;
Mom, you taught me to live life full of emotions;
But you never taught me to weigh them.

Mom, you taught me to care;
But you never taught me to be forcefully obliged;
Mom, you taught me to understand;
But you never taught me to ‘always agree’.

Mom, you taught me to fly high and reach out for my dreams;
But you never taught me to forget my roots;
Mom, you taught me to always try my best;
But you never taught me to settle for any less.

Mom, the biggest thing you taught me is;
We are all equal;
But you never taught me;
Someone is above or below.

For all the things you taught me;
You made me a humble, understanding human being with empathy;
For all the things you dint teach me;
You made me a strong woman!

For all the parents out there;
Be the mom who teaches her daughter to be her!;
All the other things really don’t matter!